SKIN BASICS: Restoring Balance
The body’s main purpose is to maintain homeostasis, or rather, balance. Imbalance in the body and specifically in the skin can cause many problems, minor to major. When we are thinking about our skin and what to use to care for it, there is a lot of information available to us. Much of this information can be misleading, especially since everyone has very different skin and lifestyles. Many giving advice, especially on social media, don’t have the credentials to do so or are receiving payment for promoting certain items. By learning about the skin and its functions, you will be able to make better decisions on how to care for your skin on a daily basis. So here it is, plain and simple. At the end of the day, it really comes down to barrier function and reducing inflammation. Remember this because we will be coming back to it!
Our skin is made up of 7 layers, 5 of which are in the epidermis. Our epidermis is our outer layers of skin that as a whole, act as our first line of defense against bacteria, germs, and UV radiation. They protect against moisture loss, hold immune cells called dendrites that detect foreign invaders, as well as containing the cells that are responsible for fat, protein, and keratin production. Keratin is the protein that makes up our skin, hair, and nails and helps us produce vitamin D when exposed to sunlight. Lastly, our epidermis contains melanocytes, which are responsible for producing our skin’s pigment, called melanin. Melanin protects our DNA from the damaging effects of UV radiation.
The last two layers are in our deepest part of the skin called the dermis. In the dermis, capillaries bring nutrients to the skin cells, temperature is controlled, and sensory neurons are housed. This is also where fingerprints come from! At the deepest level, hair follicles, sweat glands, and oil glands are contained within thick connective tissues that give our skin strength, structure, and elasticity.
When everything is in harmony, the skin is a magnificent organ that carries out many important functions. It has the ability to defend itself from acne causing bacteria and environmental irritants. However, if the first line of defense falls, problems may start to arise. The first line of defense which I am referring to is called the acid mantle or rather, the skin’s barrier. The acid mantle is made up of oils, amino acids, and sweat that help shield the body from bacteria, germs, viruses, and other potential contaminants.
If most products, even gentle ones or just water, sting the skin upon application or you experience a lot of sensitivity, your skin barrier may not be intact. Other signs of a compromised skin barrier are dryness, flaking, texture, redness, itching, stinging, inflammation, excess oil production, accelerated aging, and acne. By first focusing on repairing the barrier of the skin and calming inflammation first, you will be able to use more effective products with higher ingredient concentrations to correct any other skin concerns, as well as receive more effective treatments with your esthetician or dermatologist.
Over-exfoliation, exposure to extreme elements, over-use of active ingredients like retinol or hydroquinone, clay masks, using soap on your skin, or using the wrong facial cleanser can all throw the skin off balance. In order to repair the skin barrier, refrain from using harsh exfoliants and scrubs, retinols, and products with many active ingredients. In this stage, we are nourishing and recalibrating the skin. Don’t worry, you will be able to bring back the big guns at a later stage!
During this process, I highly recommend using an oil cleanser. Oil cleansers are specifically formulated to bind to and remove excess oil while leaving the good stuff behind. If you are wearing makeup, make sure to remove it first with a gentle makeup remover. After you cleanse, a balancing and hydrating mist or essence prior to applying a serum with hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatory ingredients will help your skin lock in the hydration and reduce redness. Inflammation is truly at the root of many skin conditions including hyperpigmentation, acne, premature aging, and rosacea. Decreasing inflammation not only helps improve skin health but also allows for other ingredients and treatments to be utilized in the future. Anti-inflammatory ingredients include but are not limited to arnica, lavender, chamomile, marshmallow, green tea, panthenol, calendula, aloe, and stone crop.
Locking all this goodness in is super important. Next, we want to apply a moisturizer or an oil that contains healthy fats. Oils are large molecules and therefore, are best applied at the end of your skincare routine, either after or before moisturizer, since other, thinner products, cannot pass through them. Oils are a friend for all skin types but the type of oil you use definitely matters. Look for a moisturizer or facial oils including squalane oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, clary sage oil, argan oil, rosehip oil, sea buckthorn oil, marula oil, hemp seed oil, or camellia oil. Using certain oils such as coconut oil, which is commonly recommended for skincare, can clog the pores and cause breakouts. This is because coconut oil is highly comedogenic (pore-clogging) and some skin types may not tolerate its use well.
Here are my product recommendations for sensitized skin in need of a reset:
Stone Crop Cleansing Oil
Multi-tasking oil cleanser and makeup remover with healing and redness reducing stone crop, potent microgreens that protect against the drying effects of environmental stressors, and vitamin-rich sunflower and jojoba oils to protect and soothe.
Birch Water Purifying Essence
Birch water purifies the skin while botanical collagen increases elasticity and improves barrier function. An essential step that helps the skin better absorb and retain the benefits of subsequent products.
Oil OR CREAM CLeanser:
Eminence organic skin care Stone Crop cleansing oil - $59
circadia nourishing cream cleanser - $40
Hydrating Mist and/or essence:
Eminence organic skin care stone crop hydrating mist - $41
Eminence organic skin care Birch water purifying essence - $56
eminence organic skin care shiitake & ashwaganda bi-phase mist - $48
Circadia Skin cAre Aloe & Calendula calming mist - $28
Circadia skin care blueberry & White tea hydrating mist - $32
Serum:
Eminence organic skin care strawberry rhubarb hyaluronic serum - $65
Eminence organic skin care stone crop serum - $65
Circadia Skin care vitamin c reversal serum - $65
Circadia skin care chrono-calm facial serum - $50
Circadia skin care moisture on demand - $35
Moisturizer:
Eminence organic skin care Stone crop Whip moisturizer - $72
eminence organic skin care ashwaganda ultra rich restorative cream - $64
eminence organic skin care bakuchiol + niacinimide moisturizer - $75
Circadia skin care Aquaporin hydrating cream - $60
circadia skin care post peel balm - $56
Oil:
Eminence ORganic Skin Care Facial REcovery Oil - $76
eminence organic skin care rosehip C + E firming oil - $118
Intelligent Elixirs Squalane ultra + oil - $50
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